As New York gathered last week to celebrate creativity and innovation at fashion week, the state of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) initiatives in the fashion industry was a pertinent topic in light of President Trump’s recent executive orders that took aim at dismantling corporate diversity programmes.
Target, for one, has announced major changes to their diversity strategy, which it introduced after George Floyd’s killing in 2020. In a memo to employees, the US retailer said it “understands the importance of staying in step with the evolving external landscape, now and in the future.” Other companies like Meta, Walmart and Disney have similarly announced the end of their DEI programmes in recent weeks.
But even before President Trump’s return to office, the fashion industry at large was facing criticism for backtracking on diversity commitments. DEI initiatives and targets have steadily been reduced and DEI departments disbanded. In 2024, The British Fashion Council’s Fashion DEI Report found that 11 percent of executive team and board “Power Roles” (being namely CEO, CFO, chair and creative director) are held by people of colour — underscoring ongoing underrepresentation within creative leadership positions.
Moral imperatives aside, this practice fails to reflect consumer demand for improved representation. A recent Mintel survey revealed that 41 percent of Gen-Z consumers — the most racially and ethnically diverse generation to date — prefer to shop from brands that reflect their identity.
Despite such row backs in DEI initiatives in fashion, organisations like RaiseFashion — the non-profit organisation dedicated to offering pro-bono advisory services and network access to Black, Indigenous and people of colour, or BIPOC, designers and underrepresented talent — continue to advocate for greater diversity and inclusion in the wider industry.
RaiseFashion plays a pivotal role in supporting underrepresented designers and entrepreneurs within the industry, such as Rachel Scott, founder and creative director of Diotima, winner of the 2024 CFDA Fashion Award and, most recently, the first ever recipient of the CFDA’s Empowered Vision Award.
Scott, alongside RaiseFashion executive director and co-founder, Felita Harris, and Mercy Amankwe, senior director of brand marketing and partnerships at The Standard, gathered together with BoF’s Shenel Wickramaratne to discuss the state of DEI in 2025. The panel explored how to navigate the current landscape while bridging perspectives and renewing commitments and inspiration in the face of adversity. Here, BoF shares key insights from the conversation.
Staying the Course Amidst DEI Headwinds
FH: Every year at RaiseFashion, we reaffirm our commitment to providing critical resources and programming for our community of designers, advocates, and partners. For those from underrepresented backgrounds, challenges are a given — but so is resilience. That’s why we remain steadfast in delivering on the promises we made five years ago, ensuring designers have access to the support they need to thrive.
Our mission has always centered on fostering a strong, supportive network through pro-bono advisory services and essential education. While we acknowledge the shifting political climate, it does not dictate our strategy — it only underscores the urgency of our work. Over the past five years, close collaboration with designers and industry partners has given us a clearer understanding of the systemic barriers they face — particularly the lack of capital, industry connections and manufacturing access.
Beyond business, community also means prioritising mental health and creating spaces for open dialogue. Events like New York Fashion Week are vital for visibility, but so is ensuring designers have the emotional and professional support to sustain their journeys. As we continue to scale and honour our commitments, our impact will only grow — because this work is far from over.
RS: As a Black woman and an immigrant, I initially took the election results lightly because navigating adversity has always been part of my reality. But when the real world consequences set in — you know, the ICE raids, media rollbacks — it became deeply personal. Just this morning, I lost a sponsor for my show due to the new Trump tariffs in Canada. In moments like these, finding the strength to move forward is difficult, which is why being surrounded by visionaries and organisations like RaiseFashion is so meaningful. This industry offers few spaces that truly support Black designers, creatives of colour, women, and the lack of diversity in leadership reflects that.
Now is the time to dig deeper — both creatively and collectively. Financial support is critical, and RaiseFashion provides that structure through masterclasses and small business funding, which can be life changing for an independent brand, especially one led by a Black woman. Access to capital in fashion is nearly non-existent for us, making initiatives like these essential.
Yet Raisefashion’s impact goes beyond funding. When Felita introduced me to their masterclass programme, I expected a few sessions. Instead, I found myself in rooms with industry leaders who could genuinely help me scale my business. […]
More than anything, what makes Raisefashion invaluable is its sense of community. Knowing that at any moment, I can call Felita or someone in the network and receive real, meaningful support is more than just reassuring — it’s what makes growth possible.
For those from underrepresented backgrounds, challenges are a given — but so is resilience.
MA: What this moment really highlights is that so much of the work we saw in 2020 was reactive. Now, we’re witnessing a massive pendulum swing in the opposite direction. And what that tells us is one thing — real structural change hasn’t happened yet. This challenge extends beyond any one sector — it’s companies across industries, from hospitality to retail, that are now being tested on the DEI commitments they once championed.
The key to lasting impact is steadfast leadership and collective action. Community remains essential, and those in positions of influence must stay firm in their missions to drive meaningful progress. For me, the most powerful part of this moment is being surrounded by women of colour, engaged in conversations that create real change. It’s a reminder that, despite the setbacks, there is light at the end of the tunnel — but we cannot afford to wait.
At The Standard, investing in diverse and emerging talent has always been a priority, and in recent years, that commitment has only strengthened. This work is about more than surface level representation — it’s about ensuring people have the resources and opportunities to grow. Too often, DEI campaigns fall flat because the teams behind them lack true diversity. The work we create is a reflection of who we are, and without varied voices present in the room, we can’t expect to produce work that genuinely connects with diverse audiences. […] Real change starts from within, and by building teams with the power to shape the future, we can drive the transformation we want to see.
Aligning Industry, Consumer and Designer Needs
RS: I am constantly thinking about the customer — both those I reach directly and those I connect with through wholesale partners, who are integral to my business. As we move through fashion week, every decision in the design process, from casting to messaging, is made with the customer in mind. Even the smallest details, like colour choices or the sound of the presentation, are carefully considered. For instance, I avoid military green to prevent subconsciously contributing to harmful ideologies. Nothing in my work is accidental — every choice has purpose and meaning, reflecting our deeper considerations about the world around us.
But beyond design, the challenges for independent brands are daunting. Fashion is expensive, and even after 18 years in the industry and launching my own brand, I’m still learning. Mentorship is vital, as much of the knowledge needed to navigate the industry isn’t easily accessible. Having a strong network to rely on for issues like production, cash flow, or strategy, is invaluable.
The reality is, brands don’t always fail because the product isn’t good — they often fail because they simply run out of money. There aren’t enough grants, loans or financial opportunities for independent designers, especially for those from underrepresented backgrounds.
The key to lasting impact is steadfast leadership and collective action.
And then there’s the mental toll. Fashion can be incredibly isolating. And there is this expectation that designers should be these superhuman — creating, running a business, being public facing — all the while feeling unsupported. […] That’s why community is so essential. Having spaces where we can be honest, where we feel seen and supported, makes all the difference. It’s not just about sustaining our businesses — it’s about sustaining ourselves.
FH: The challenges designers face are multifaceted — there’s raising capital, securing mentorship and gaining visibility, whether through press, editorial features — or simply being discovered by the right audience. From a consumer standpoint, there’s a clear desire to support underrepresented and diverse brands, but that connection isn’t always seamless. Consumers do want to engage, yet the path to finding and supporting these brands isn’t always obvious.
From an industry perspective, it’s also important to acknowledge the challenges retailers face. Many have onboarded diverse brands, sometimes prematurely, and when performance metrics don’t meet expectations, it becomes difficult to sustain those partnerships.
At the end of the day, this is a business and profitability matters. That’s why the timing is crucial. Within our network, we have experienced retail executives who volunteer their time, offering insights on how to make these relationships work while also protecting designers from the immense pressure of margin demands and profitability expectations.
The real question here is — what’s the solution? Discussions around net terms, equitable financing and fair business practices need to be had. At the core, everyone — designers, retailers, and consumers — share the same goal: a more inclusive industry with better access to diverse products and talent. The challenge lies in how we get there.
MA: Community is at the core of everything we do. As we expand into new markets, we don’t just bring our existing approach — we take the time to understand the fabric of the local culture and the needs of the people there. That means engaging with the community, identifying what matters most in each region, and ensuring that our presence is meaningful.
Right now, in the US, we are seeing major shifts, so we’re investing in ways to show up for people in this space. In the UK, Thailand, beyond — different conversations [about DEI] are taking place, requiring different forms of engagement. Our goal is to partner with the right voices, whether that be artists, property owners, or other cultural leaders, so that we can create spaces for connection, dialogue and support.
Sometimes, that means providing physical spaces where communities can gather. Other times, it’s about hosting conversations like this one, amplifying the work of organisations like RaiseFashion or designers like Rachel.
Renewing Commitments and Inspiration in the Face of Adversity
FH: The key is staying the course — being measured, strategic and intentional in our approach. We’re not ignoring the political climate, but instead, we’re implementing systems that create real, lasting change. One of those systems is our recently launched advisory platform, which allows executives to provide pro-bono mentorship to designers, [historically Black colleges and universities, or] HBCU interns and fashion students. We are building an ecosystem where ongoing conversations and immediate support are possible.
Another priority is expanding our Designer Production Fund, ensuring more access to grant funding. The reality is that designers need capital to stay in business, and we are committed to being a resource for them throughout that process.
Beyond that, we need to continue amplifying the work. We don’t talk enough about success. Every one of us has a role to play — whether it’s using social media to highlight the designers we support, subscribing to our recently relaunched newsletter, or recognising the brands and sponsors that are sustaining their commitments. Visibility matters and celebrating progress strengthens our collective impact.
Now is the time to lean into community, into your promises, and into your values. This moment isn’t just about government or policy — it’s about what each of us is willing to do.
MA: For me, partnership is about more than just a name on an invitation — it’s about the full engagement from start to finish. That could mean a decade-long commitment, increased financial support, a bigger platform, or simply being a reliable sounding board. There’s so much that goes into the work these organisations do, and being present throughout the entire process is key.
For us, this is about creating something that feels like home — fashion should feel like family, like a lifelong connection. And, I believe we show up in that way. It’s not just about participation — it’s about a personal, high-touch approach that fosters lasting partnerships.
RS: I was in LA over the weekend for an event centred around Black-owned businesses, and it was so heartening to see people coming in, shopping, talking, and just supporting one another. Even though I was stressed, there was this palpable excitement and pride in what I was doing as a Black woman. It reminded me of my responsibility — to push and go as far as I can, not just for myself, but as part of this broader community.
I didn’t follow the traditional path into fashion. As an immigrant and a Black woman who didn’t have the privilege of attending Central Saint Martins or working under a major fashion house, the industry often tells you that’s the only way to be credible. That’s absolutely untrue. If you have something to say, you should say it — on your own timeline, not one dictated by unrealistic expectations or limited access to capital.
We cannot get complacent. We need to dig into our communities and be as loud as possible.
At the end of the day, it’s about community — building and investing in it. We see large corporations divesting from DEI initiatives, so it’s even more critical for us to invest personally. That means wrapping our arms around each other — checking in, finding ways to meet up and support each other, especially in these challenging times.
When I started in fashion back in 2007, I was the only Black person on [a] design team. That was my reality until almost 2015. Now, there’s been progress — more organisations like RaiseFashion are supporting us, and major retailers like Moda Operandi, Saks and Bergdorf Goodman are buying from our brands and engaging in meaningful conversations with us — that is significant progress.
But we cannot get complacent. We need to dig into our communities and be as loud as possible — especially as external forces try to silence us. The louder and more unified we are, the better it will be for all of us.
This feature is part of a community partnership with RaiseFashion.
