What Fashion’s Creative Talent Needs to Know Today

Discover the most relevant industry news and insights for fashion creatives, updated each month to enable you to excel in job interviews, promotion conversations or impress in the workplace by increasing your market awareness and emulating market leaders.

BoF Careers distils business intelligence from across the breadth of our content — editorial briefings, newsletters, case studies, podcasts and events — to deliver key takeaways and learnings tailored to your job function, listed alongside a selection of the most exciting live jobs advertised by BoF Careers partners.

Key articles and need-to-know insights for creatives in fashion today:

1. Can Fashion Sell ‘Brat Summer’?

Fuelled by musician Charli XCX, "brat" has become the theme of the summer.
Fuelled by musician Charli XCX, “brat” has become the theme of the summer. (BoF Team)

Move over, Barbie: 2024 is officially the summer of “Brat.” For the uninitiated (or terminally offline) being “brat” has taken over the collective consciousness — or at the very least, TikTok. Inspired by the musician Charli XCX’s latest album, also called “Brat,” it can be interpreted as an attitude that’s both immature and commandingly careless, messy but still girly. The album’s bright, slimey green cover is a visual personification of the aesthetic’s signature colour, but to dress the part, all you need is a strappy tank top, a BIC lighter and a pack of cigs, Charli told the BBC.

Brat has all the hallmarks of a sticky cultural moment: It’s driven by a musician at a new height of popularity, has an identifiable, bold corresponding aesthetic and is entering the conversation at the opportune time — the start of summer. And fashion brands, keen to tap into potential sales-driving trends following the successes of last year’s Barbiecore and quiet luxury obsessions, are taking notice. (Coincidentally, a brat-style green was on Prada and Gucci’s menswear runways last month, and has been on the rise for a few seasons now, according to trend analytics firm WGSN.)

Related Jobs:

Head of Creative, Omnes — London, United Kingdom

Graphic Designer, Hugo Boss — Coldrerio, Switzerland

Creative Operations Senior Assocaite, Tory Burch — New York, United States

2. Fashion’s AI Dilemma Is Getting Worse

Baggu Collina
Baggu Collina (Baggu)

When nylon bag maker Baggu debuted its collaboration with the equally buzzy label Collina Strada last week, the two brands were expecting a smash hit. […] But some consumers expressed anger and disappointment over the use of generative artificial intelligence by Collina Strada, pointing to the technology’s implications for the livelihood of artists as well as its potential impact on the environment. “Using AI is unforgivable. Hurts my heart but I will not be buying from Baggu anymore,” one user wrote. “It’s a big disappointment,” said another.

Even amid these controversies, the fashion industry has embraced the tool with more or less open arms. In a survey of industry executives, 73 percent said generative AI would be a key priority for their business this year, according to BoF’s 2024 State of Fashion Report. In the case of Collina Strada, the AI software Midjourney was used to generate two prints in the Baggu collection by mixing existing hand-drawn graphics from the brand’s archives to create a layered effect, before hand-drawn Collina Strada logos were added.

Related Jobs:

Creative Artworker, Casablanca Paris — London, United Kingdom

Graphic Designer, Vetements — Zurich, Switzerland

Retoucher, Apparatus — New York, United States

3. Marc Jacobs Goes to Toon Town

For Autumn 2024, Marc Jacobs delivered a joyful escape to the cartoon world of Minnie Mouse, Olive Oyl and Cinderella.
For Autumn 2024, Marc Jacobs delivered a joyful escape to the cartoon world of Minnie Mouse, Olive Oyl and Cinderella. (Alexandra Arnold)

Sometimes you don’t know whether to laugh or cry. In a week that brought us a crushing far right wave in France, and the United States Supreme Court giving the former commander-in-chief (now convicted felon) unprecedented immunity, designer Marc Jacobs argued forcefully in favour of raging against the dying of the light.

“Joy, Period” was the title of his show notes, and despite our collective feeling that there is no way out of the abyss into which we are sinking, it was a beautiful balmy night in Manhattan, and Jacobs’ off-schedule presentation took place again in the soaring main hall of the New York Public Library. It lasted a full five minutes — six, maybe, if you were seated at the far end of the runway. (The show began exactly at 7:30pm, and if you lived nearby, you could get home by 7:45 to hear President Biden excoriating the Supreme Court ruling.)

Related Jobs:

Creative Relations Intern, Moncler — Milan, Italy

Director of Creative Operations, On — Zurich, Switzerland

Junior Graphic Designer, Chalhoub Group — Dubai, United Arab Emirates

4. Lanvin Names Peter Copping Its New Artistic Director

Lanvin has named Peter Copping its new artistic director.
Lanvin has named Peter Copping its new artistic director. (Riccardo Olerhead)

Lanvin has named Peter Copping its new artistic director, ending a designer search that took more than a year amid instability at the French brand’s Chinese parent company. Copping, a British native, will become the creative lead for womenswear and menswear from September 2024, the company said Thursday. Most recently, Copping worked at Balenciaga, which he joined as head of couture in 2021. He also served as creative director of Nina Ricci from 2009 to 2014, then succeeded legendary designer Oscar de la Renta at the helm of his eponymous New York brand.

The appointment of Copping aims to reconnect Lanvin with Paris fashion’s post-WWII glory days: he was hand-picked for the Oscar de la Renta role by the designer himself, who trained at Lanvin and Balenciaga in the 1960s before founding his namesake house in New York.

Related Jobs:

Textile Designer, Zara Home — A Coruña, Spain

Print & Shoot Production Director, Coach — New York, United States

Senior Graphic Designer, Chico’s — Fort Myers, United States

5. The Stores Defining a New Era of Multi-Brand Retail

Inside Jamestown in Hudson, New York.
Inside Jamestown in Hudson, New York. (Jamestown)

Several big luxury e-commerce sites have changed owners or been shut down over the last year. But their struggles have created an opening for a new wave of retailers looking to build a healthier, more sustainable model for luxury retail. “Right now, there is a space for good curation, good customer service, interesting activations, playfulness, humour, thinking outside the box … and the hardest thing to create, intimacy,” said Julie Gilhart, a business consultant and former long-time fashion director at Barneys.

This new landscape includes survivors like The Webster, Dover Street Market, Kirna Zabête and Elyse Walker. They’re joined by newcomers like ESSX and Café Forgot in New York, and the likes of Sportivo in Madrid, LN-CC in London, The Broken Arm in Paris and ENG in Shanghai. [A popular approach is to] convince hyper-digital consumers to browse IRL by providing an in-store experience that cannot be found on Instagram, TikTok or Ssense. That means taking risks on emerging, if not obscure fashion labels and catering to local tastes.

Related Jobs:

Visual Merchandising Manager, Tapestry — London, United Kingdom

Guest Experience Assistant, The Bicester Collection — Kildare, Ireland

Assistant Visual Merchandiser Manager, Alexander McQueen — Singapore, Singapore

6. Bobbi Brown Is Now the Host of This Zoom Meeting

Bobbi Brown and her husband, Stephen Plofker, at the opening of Jones Road's Palm Beach store.
Brown and her husband, Stephen Plofker, at the opening of Jones Road’s Palm Beach store.

On a private Zoom call with some of her (second) beauty brand’s most loyal customers, makeup artist Bobbi Brown fields questions, previews new products and doles out blunt beauty advice. “What is your best eye makeup advice for someone who hates mascara?” Brown reads from a chat window. “The only tip I have is: get over your hate for mascara,” Brown said aloud. Brown founded Jones Road at 63, some 25 years after selling her eponymous makeup brand to the Estée Lauder Companies.

The brand’s retail sales this year are forecast to be upwards of $140 million, a seven-fold increase since its debut in 2020. Part of the brand’s success comes down to Brown’s close connection with her customers, who are affectionately referred to as “Roadies.” The Zoom call hosted by Brown this month was the first of its kind – arranged to celebrate the two-year-old Facebook group hitting the milestone of 50,000 members.

Related Jobs:

Senior Beauty Designer (Popups & Activations), Burberry — London, United Kingdom

Beauty Visual Merchandiser, Gucci — Milan, Italy

Windows Design Manager, Tiffany & Co. — New York, United States

7. Why Influencers Want You in Their Group Chats

Instagram’s broadcast channel feature is becoming a favourite for online creators and brand founders.
Instagram’s broadcast channel feature is becoming a favourite for online creators and brand founders. (BoF Team)

Any user with over 10,000 followers can create [a broadcast channel] to share images and text, as well as features like polls and question boxes. Though members can’t respond the way they would in an actual group chat, they can react with emojis. […] Influencers including Courtney Grow, Mallory Goldman, Megan Roup and Sara Walker have launched channels in recent months, as have founders like Gen-Z favourite fashion company Parke’s Chelsea Kramer, fashion and lifestyle brand Hill House Home’s Nell Diamond and lab-grown jewellery label Dorsey’s Megan Strachan.

Just as influencers are using the channels to present a more candid picture of their day-to-day, so are brand founders. Shrugging off the “girl boss” era of the 2010s, which was defined by glossy success stories plastered on the covers of magazines, they’re using channels to give a more realistic picture of what it means to be an entrepreneur. […] But the benefits go further than transparency.

Related jobs:

Internship Influencer Marketing, Hugo Boss — Metzingen, Germany

Sr. Manager, Retention Marketing, Stuart Weitzman — New York, United States

Visual Merchandising Stylist, Bloomingdale’s — Santa Clara, United States

8. ‘Vogue World’ Takes on Paris — and Sports

Sabrina Carpenter walks the runway during Vogue World: Paris at Place Vendôme.
Vogue World: Paris РShow Sabrina Carpenter walks the runway during Vogue World: Paris at Place Vend̫me. (Getty Images)

Vogue — and French fashion — sought to position themselves at the heart of pop culture and sport, kicking off Paris haute couture week with a star-studded celebration Sunday linking fashion history, music and athletic excellence.

Aya Nakamura and Bad Bunny performed, while a mix of sports stars and models circled the square’s central column wearing looks designed to evoke Paris’ fashion’s long love affair with athletics. A horde of young aspiring Olympians opened the show wearing all-white ensembles by Lacoste; models Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner rode the runway on horseback in the ever equestrian-inspired Hermès. Venus and Serena Williams wore ensembles by Marine Serre and Off-White, and “Espresso” singer Sabrina Carpenter strutted in a custom Jacquemus look inspired by glamorous mid-century swimwear. A breakdance team closed the show in Louis Vuitton jumpsuits by Pharrell Williams, who sat beside editor-in-chief Anna Wintour (John Galliano sat to her other side). Swimmers, footballers and champion fencers were also present.

Vogue’s focus on sport comes amid the ramp-up to the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, as well as a broader explosion in sponsorship activity. Brands are increasingly drawn to famous athletes’ mix of high visibility and an aspirational image: the sports sponsorship market is set to grow from $63.1 billion in 2021 to $109.1 billion by 2030, a report by consultancy PwC found.

Related Jobs:

Visual Merchandiser, Carhartt WIP — London, United Kingdom

Creative Patternmaker, Acne Studios — Paris, France

Senior Visual 3D Design Associate, Tory Burch — New York, United States

Careers banner.

Source link

About The Author

Scroll to Top